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Sunday 15 February 2015

This week's wine: Muscadet Sevre et Maine

A good Muscadet is hard to come by. Not even when the name is extended geographically with the words ”Sevre et Maine,” which used to be a guarantee of quality, especially when the words “sur lie” extend it farther, can we be assured of something special. “Sur lie” means that the wine has been rested for a period on its lees, which supposedly brings a slight prickle to its flavour. All too often, however, it merely brings a bland fizziness, which does not make it desirable at all.

Most supermarkets today are content to stock a single basic Muscadet which rises, though sometimes only just, above the ordinaire. Yet traditionally this north-western French wine is good with food.   Waitrose sells a reliable one called Fief Guerin, attractively priced at £7.99.  The other day on a visit to the long-established wine shop, Villeneuve, on the High Street of  Peebles, I found another, a 2013 chateau-bottled Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie called Chateau Poyet, costing a tenner but worth its elevated price.

A classic Muscadet, clean and piquant but not lacking fruitiness, it was said by the  jaunty young shop assistant to be good with fish - or, indeed, with fish suppers. But it would be good with much else, and can be recommended.

Villeneuve is worth visiting. It carries an interesting stock, is neatly laid out, has won a Which? award, maintains its own website, and supplies many local hotels and restaurants. Moreover it has an Edinburgh branch in Broughton Street.
15 February 2015

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