Triade

It is neither Orvieto nor Verdicchio. It is not Soave, and it is certainly not Pinot Grigio. But the British belief that Italy’s whites are all much of a muchness compared with its reds is challenged by this product of Campania, from close to the toe of the peninsula and more like a fine Greco di Tufo  than any of the wines mentioned above.

Waitrose is currently selling it for £6.69 a bottle, which is a very inviting price for a wine normally costing £8.99. Like other wines using the Greco grape, it has body and structure, a hint of lemon and almonds making it a nice aperitif and good accompaniment to fish - particularly, it is said, if the fish is mackerel - and pasta dishes.

The grapes, blending Greco with Fiano and Falanghina,  are grown on volcanic soil on upper slopes, giving this white its  quite distinctive flavour, which escapes the scorched earth taste of some other southern wines.

So, even if its name is unfamiliar, it is well worth sampling as long as the reduction lasts. In other  words, buy now - you’ll be lucky to get it for so low a price another time.
18 February 2015