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A few good whites

Though Macon is the least reliable of white burgundies, there are plenty of good ones to be found, if you know what you want, and dull ones are merely a matter of ill luck.

A good one which has come my way, and which I have not encountered before, is a 2012 Macon-Uchizy from the expanding list presided over by Naked Wines of Norfolk.

 Produced by the youthful team of Eric and Catherine Giroud from   Le Moulin de l’Oeuvre, it has the piquant  mineral taste that, in my experience,comes with other Macon-Uchizy wines, faintly reminiscent of Chablis,  without being too austere. At £10.49 to subscribers - and £14.99 full price - it is nor exactly a snip, but if you buy a bottle I think you may fancy buying a second one.  The benchmark 2011 vintage is sold out, but the 2012 has now arrived.

If supermarkets are your preference, Macon-Lugny Les Charmes  at £10.50 from Waitrose continues to live up to its pleasing name, but if that seems too dear a Cave de Lugny at £7.99 from the same shop is a happy, if slightly edgier, bargain.

Waitrose Macons are established favourites,  but I have just received a present of a different white altogether, a 2012 Spanish Godello Monterrei bought from M&S. At £9.99 a bottle, this is Spanish white at its cleanest and snazziest, refreshingly uncluttered, 13 per cent proof and strongly recommended.


17 November 2014  

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