Primitivo

The mistake most people make about Primitivo lies in assuming it to be an undrinkably rough,  tough, rustic Italian red, poured from a wicker-covered bottle on  the terrace of a primitive bar on some remote village piazza, In fact fact it is a sophisticated, juicy, greatly desirable but admittedly robust  southern  red  with an inviting aroma, produced in the Puglia region and imported by Valvona & Crolla, as well as  an increasing number of supermarkets which can rightly take pride in it.

Neither primitive nor particularly cheap, it is a thoroughly reliable wine which, made with increasing finesse, seldom disappoints. The fact that the primitivo grape is reputedly the same as America’s zindanfel would only be a  handicap if it did not measure up to its famous Californian cousin, but measure up it undoubtedly does.

If you have not already tried it, then buy a bottle of Marks & Spencer’s 2012 Notte Rossa Primitivo di Manduria to find out.  The label shows a stepladder with someone at the top reaching for the moon and stars - an apt symbol for a wine which, costing £10 a bottle, is worth anybody’s effort. It is a big wine (14 per cent alcohol) from a big grape, and its aroma, popularly described as tar and roses, certainly precedes it.The taste is rich and fruity, with a touch of dark Italian chocolate.

 Although many good Italian reds have an edge of bitterness, this one has the allure of being  impressively  smooth. For a good Primitivo with a bit more bottle age, expect to pay from £15 upwards at Valvona & Crolla.
8 February 2015