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Tuesday 18 October 2016

Wine choice: Arneis

Arneis is a white Italian wine quite hard to find in Britain and not always easy in Italy either. Nor, when you do find it, is it always at its best.  More often than not it is a disappointment, and the mystique surrounding its name a little puzzling.  Yet good Arneis does exist and, when bought absolutely fresh, can be delightful.

Naked Wines, the East Anglian suppliers who now operate in tandem with Majestic - have recently added a good one to their list. The problem is that though it is certainly Italian and white and easily sipped, it does not taste very like Arneis, at least to my palate. Its identifiable undertones are missing.

Yet Italians speak proudly of Arneis and call it their white Barolo, while admitting that the Piedmont grape is difficult to grow. The name, quite aptly in the circumstances, means “little rascal.”  Therefore is the one from Naked Wines really worth pursuing?  Costing £8.99 a bottle, it is not the cheapest of Italian whites, but people are clearly buying it because new stocks of the 2015 vintage are awaited.

The wine conforms with the usually admirable  Naked Wines policy of supporting new and independent winemakers, which is perhaps why it is not immediately recognisable, with the new taste concealing the old.  Think of it perhaps as an alternative to something like Gavi and you might be on the right track, in which case you would enjoy it's fulness and brightness of flavour.

I bought  two bottles, and would consider buying it again.
17 October 2016

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