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Thursday 3 December 2015

This Week's Wine: Montagny

Mountainy, like Saint Veran, is one of the good white burgundies, and Waitrose’s current version of it, a 2013 premier cru les coeres, is very good indeed.

True, at £14.99 a bottle, it is not particularly cheap, but its vibrancy speaks for itself. We had it with salmon en croute and with seared scallops a la Fred the Shred, and it was a great success, shared last week with a close musical friend.

As prelude, a 2013 low yield Marsanne from the young wine-producing Simpsons of Sainte Rose, with an alcohol content of 14 and a half per cent, seemed overwhelming, even when thoroughly chilled.

Costing £9.99 from Naked Wines of Norfolk, also available from Majestic, it needed a different occasion for its huge fruitiness to blossom and would have been much too powerful for what we were eating that night.

At £8.99, Waitrose’s Macon-Villages Cave de Lugny is pleasing but more ordinary. Reduced  by 25 per cent to the same price until December 12,  Louis Jadot’s reliable Macon-Villages Chapelle aux Loups from the same supermarket is more interesting, and can be more enthusiastically recommended as an aperitif.
3 December 2015

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