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Tuesday 18 August 2015

This Week's Wine: Soave

Supermarket Soave is not, on the whole, something to look forward to. It does not bring back happy memories of Verona and Lake Garda,where the better Soave flourishes . It does not bring back memories of anything more than humdrum supermarket Soave, whose only virtue lies in its cheapness.

But are other Soaves marketed in Britain really much better? I certainly have good memories of the one which British Transport Hotels used to sell in their wineshops around the country. Long since gone - the one in what used to be Edinburgh’s NB Hotel was a particular favourite of mine, transformed into a humdrum brasserie when the hotel became the Balmoral - and I miss it a lot.

But even in specialist wine shops it has become hard to find a Soave as smooth as its name implies. When Naked Wines of Norfolk, now operating in conjunction with Majestic Wines, announced its 2013 Marta Soave Classico, describing it as a “bright little beauty,” I hoped the best. At £10.99 a bottle, reduced from £16.99, it is clearly no bargain but is it any good?

No better than all right I would say, adding that you might as well stick to Waitrose’s or one of the other routine Soaves costing less than £8. The search continues.
18 August 2015

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