Triade is not an evocative name for an Italian white wine. Supermarkets do not plant bottles of it alongside their stock of Soave, Pinot Grigio,Verdicchio, and Orvieto, all of which have vivid place associations even if not always the stamp of quality.
Triade owes its name, in fact, to the three grape varieties -Fiano, Falanghina, and Greco (as in Greco di tufo) - that go into its manufacture. Matured in small oak barrels, it is the taste of Southern Italy, and its flavour is sophisticated, nutty, vibrant, and distinctive enough to make you remember it with pleasure.
Waitrose is one supermarket that supplies it, but the name, it would seem, has not caught the attention of customers - which is surely why it has just dropped in price from the £9 level to what deserves to be a very tempting £6.74. Whether or not the drop is permanent remains to be seen, but snap it up while it is on offer.
For swordfish or shellfish it is a perfect partner, but it is good enough on its own to seem the most inviting of aperitifs.
26 August 2015
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