Muscadet, as I keep asserting, is a matter of chance. At its cheapest, it can be vile and harsh. At its dearest, more elaborately named, it can be a French delight. But most Muscadet comes in between, and that is when luck becomes a factor. It’s when we realise that cheap can sometimes be good, and expensive disappointing.
This week from Waitrose it is a Muscadet which is cheap but good enough to make you want more. At £6.49 a bottle, it can hardly fail to be unpretentious. Named La Mariniere, with a sketch of shellfish on the label, this is unquestionably a basic Muscadet, its appellation as plain as can be, but its taste as bright as you could wish.
It tastes, quite simply, like Muscadet, and that is why we loved this 2013 specimen. If stocks last, we shall be buying it again.
5 March 2015
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