Montagny, like Saint Veran, is a good white burgundy rather hard to find in supermarkets but always worth searching for. Not even M&S, with its quite substantial Christmas list, appears to be stocking it at present, though the wine supplier I currently use for deliveries most often - Naked Wines of Norfolk - does list one from the experienced producer Dominic Hentall which can be recommended.
At £11.99 to customers - around £16 full price - it is not the cheapest white burguny on the market. A good Chablis would cost about the same, but this 2012 Montagny is a fine, subtle specimen of what is undoubtedly a classy aperitif or fish wine, and thus worth its price, especially at Christmas.
Elegant and full of flavour, it is something worth buying more than once, its grapes harvested from stony soil, its taste impressively intense. It is not the only Hentall burgundy stocked by Naked Wines - there is a somewhat cheaper but also admirable Cote Chalonnaise similarly worth investigating, which I have been drinking for a while, but the 2012 Montagny would certainly get your Christmas lunch off to a good start.
30 November 2014
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